To get a variety of vegetables, you need to know some of the intricacies of growing these crops. When planting plants, it is worth planning in advance how the beds will be located. At the same time, gardeners-vegetable growers with little experience in conquering a vegetable garden, as well as people with an impressive experience of field work, should take into account crop rotation in nature.

The same vegetable cannot grow in the same place all the time. The maximum period should not exceed three to four years. There are also small exceptions to these rules - garden dwellers who are able to stay in the same place for a long time. These are tomatoes, beans, strawberries, potatoes, onions, parsley and dill.

Plants cultivated by humans require all kinds of mineral and organic fertilizers. They have an unequal root system and are susceptible to various diseases. Depending on this, they place various types of vegetables in the neighborhood, take into account the order of their planting. It should also be borne in mind what nutrients are required by garden crops, which are currently in the soil.

If vegetables are affected by the same disease, they should not be planted one after the other. For example, tomatoes and potatoes are susceptible to late blight. If tomatoes are planted the next year after this root crop, or, conversely, this disease will be transmitted to the culture. The same story with weeds. Some vegetables suppress weeds with their green mass, while others cannot compete with grass, it grows, drowning out useful crops. This factor should also be taken into account when planning the sequencing of boarding.

The consumption of the amount of nutrients in different vegetable plants is not the same: some require more, others less. Keep in mind that each culture requires vitamins and minerals according to its vital functions. If you plant vegetables in a row that need an increased content of nutrients, then the earth will be depleted after them. This must be taken into account when choosing the following crops to be planted in the beds.

Zucchini is a very popular vegetable among useful crops grown by summer residents. It is very resistant to diseases, after the end of its fruiting, the land is not adversely affected. Therefore, after this vegetable, you can plant many other useful and tasty crops:

• beets, carrots, radishes;
• tomatoes of different varieties;
• peas, beans, beans;
• onion garlic;
• sweet peppers, eggplants feel great in the beds after zucchini;
• potatoes and cabbage will have excellent harvests;
• greens (spinach, celery, lettuce) and herbs (basil, mint, coriander).

There are special tables on the Internet with the help of which it is easy to find out what and for what to plant in the beds. Let them be a hint for growing vegetables and help you to harvest only high yields. Do not forget that before planting any crop, the soil must be prepared, fertilized and watered.

It is impossible to imagine a table in the summer season without zucchini dishes. This simple vegetable fills the diet as it can be used to prepare a wide variety of dishes. Everyone who has their own vegetable garden tries to grow useful fruits on their own. It is important for gardeners to know and observe some of the subtleties when planting in order to get a rich harvest. One of them is to plant the zucchini afterwards.

Short description

Zucchini - an annual crop from Initially, like their progenitors, these vegetables were known as creeping shrubs. Now the cultivation of bush varieties is more practiced.

Bush... It has five-pointed leaves placed on elongated petioles. A fairly abundant herbaceous mass is able to protect the root from premature drying.

Leaves. Leave the impression of a creative masterpiece. Many bush varieties have whitish patterns on a green leaf background.

Flowers. Different-sex bells densely inhabit the bush and are characterized by their yellow color.

Root. Spreading surface type system. The adventitious processes are located on the sides of the lateral roots.

Some properties of zucchini

The main feature of zucchini is that they are very easily absorbed by the body. They contain potassium, iron and a whole complex of vitamins. Thanks to their properties, zucchini are suitable food for babies.

In order to successfully grow nutritious vegetables such as zucchini, you need to consider some nuances. The potential for the future harvest is laid when it is planted.

What is important to know when planting zucchini

The area where the zucchini will grow should be accessible to sunlight and protected from drafts.

Light soils are better suited. Therefore, humus, straw and crushed green manure are first introduced into it. Also, depending on the composition of the soil, ash and mineral fertilizers are added to it.

The next moment is to find out, and then plant zucchini. Sometimes gardeners cannot understand the reason for a bad harvest. It would seem that the place is suitable, and the soil is fertile, but the return is unimportant. It turns out that the culture that had previously grown in the garden played a role.

Some already know the concept of crop rotation. It increasingly affects the field of gardening.

What is crop rotation

Crop rotation is the alternation of planting crops in the same area. This method is scientifically substantiated, in particular, it is used on a large scale in the fields. Some gardeners have seen in practice how crop rotation has a positive effect on the harvest.

The method in question is not chaotic. Each plant has its own predecessors. To determine after which crops you can plant zucchini, you should be guided by a number of factors:

1. Plants have an individual need for the consumption of chemical elements from the soil. Each next cultivation of a crop changes its composition.
2. The natural structure of the soil layer for plants is of great importance. Also, the level of digging can be different. Sometimes, in order to decide after what culture to plant zucchini, additional work on the soil will help resolve this issue.
3. Pay attention to the biological characteristics of plants. These include tolerance to weed areas and common pests.
4. In order to save money, crops with fast ripening periods are grown.

Crop Rotation Benefits

The purpose of this process is to maximize the generous return from the garden or suburban area. A competent approach to alternating planting of different crops will help you see all the benefits of this method. These include:

• Reducing the number of diseases in plants. After harvesting, each crop leaves behind pathogenic bacteria that are inherent, in particular, in its family. It can be late blight in tomatoes or root rot in cucumbers. If such vegetables are planted again next year, they will start to hurt even more, because pathogens will find a suitable home for themselves. Moving a culture to another location will not help further development diseases, and she will feel better in the new area.
• Help with pest control. Certain types of insects living in the garden have their own favorite vegetables. For example, some species of ants eat up the roots of early cabbage. The alternation of plant sites sometimes confuses pests. They are not always able to orient themselves while bushes or plant fruits are developing.
• Improving soil composition. Plants absorb nutrients from different soil layers, depending on the structure of the root system. Therefore, the crop rotation does not allow depleting the land.

To get abundant fruiting in zucchini, it is important to pay attention to their similarities and differences with other plants.

What are the criteria for choosing a predecessor for zucchini

There are 3 main points here:

1. The depth of the roots.
2. Absorption of specific elements for nutrition.
3. Pests and diseases.

After what culture to plant zucchini

The principle of not tired land works here. If last year vegetables grew that did not particularly need those substances that are necessary for zucchini, then the return for the latter will be generous. Several optimal options for such a landing are considered below.

• Experienced farmers plant zucchini after cabbage and are satisfied. This is partly due to the fact that the root of cabbage goes deeper into the soil than that of squash. It absorbs nutrients from the deeper layer, thus leaving food for future settlers.
• Zucchini is also planted after tomatoes. Their root system is powerful and branched. As it develops, it structures the soil well and prepares it for the next plant. Tomatoes are not very demanding on nitrogen, but they absorb potassium and especially phosphorus well. Zucchini love nitrogen as they need to build up a thick green mass. Before fruiting, they, like many other garden crops, are fed with phosphorus.
• Planting zucchini after blue ones is recommended for the same reasons as after tomatoes, since they belong to the same family. But there is a particular advantage here. Eggplants are very responsive to organic and complex mineral fertilizers. Seasoned gardeners take good care of such fertilizing, and this guarantees a high yield for the next crop, which will grow in their place.
• Legumes are always excellent precursors for those plants that are partial to nitrogen. Therefore, after which it would be appropriate to plant zucchini, so this is after peas and beans. During their stay in the place designated for them, they accumulate a lot of nitrogen, which is required for zucchini.
• Whether it is possible to plant zucchini after potatoes mainly depends on the preparation of the soil. During the growing season, potatoes absorb quite a lot of phosphorus and potassium. After harvesting, it is necessary to reimburse the stock of the required elements. Basically, this crop is an excellent predecessor, as it belongs to the nightshade family. After all crops belonging to this family, it is important to remove the tops in order to protect the future crop from diseases. It is also noteworthy that potatoes form their fruits underground, and zucchini on the surface. This is one of the facets of crop rotation.
• It is believed that onions do not harm the future fruiting of courgettes. He can serve as a predecessor in one season. Onions are planted on greens in early spring, and before the time of planting zucchini they are already plucked.
• A great option for zucchini is previous carrot cultivation. It does not need a lot of nitrogen and does not deplete the surface layer of the earth. Its roots find their nourishment in a deeper layer. For experienced gardeners, the soil for carrots is usually well structured and enriched in phosphorus and potassium. Superphosphate and ash are usually added under it.

Best predecessor

As you can see, in order to grow a successful pumpkin culture, there is a wide selection of predecessors. This fact facilitates planting planning and gives the gardener freedom of choice. From the list of all favorable plants, one can single out what, after which it is better to plant zucchini. These include peas and beans. Why can I say so?

Legumes visibly structure the soil and store nutrients. During the growing season, nitrogen reserves are formed on their roots. They also have the ability to convert complex forms of phosphorus into those available for plant nutrition.

Crops from the legume family are sown for the purpose of improving the soil. They help fight the nematode. Planting zucchini after peas or beans is a guaranteed protection against root rot.

What vegetables are bad predecessors of courgettes

As mentioned, each plant absorbs nutrients at a suitable level in the soil layer. If you plant the same crop in one place every year, then the land will no longer justify itself.

Based on the foregoing, it becomes clear after which you can not plant zucchini. These are primarily related plants. These include pumpkins and melons. They have the same root system, similar diseases and are affected by the same pests.

Some summer residents have a question about cucumbers: is it possible to plant zucchini after them. The fact is that not everyone knows that the cucumber belongs to the pumpkin family. At first glance, it differs in its own way. outward appearance... But it is no secret for experienced gardeners that he is often amazed. powdery mildew, root rot and spider mites. These diseases are also characteristic of zucchini. And by its structure, the cucumber betrays its belonging to pumpkin crops.

Is it possible to plant zucchini after zucchini

From the available information, we can say unequivocally - no. But many experienced farmers might object. It happens that on a very fertile land, bountiful harvests grow for several years in a row in the same allotted area. It should not be forgotten that the way the plants are rotated creates potential for the years to come. Sooner or later, the soil will still become scarce. This is an important factor for those who are going to use their garden for a long time.

It is easy to plan the planting of vegetables for gardeners who have a large plot of land to roam. In this case, you can move crops from year to year at your discretion. But what should summer residents do with a small plot? Once they have already found suitable places for the vegetables they want to grow, and changing their place is a problem.

There is an alternative method in which you can plant the zucchini after the zucchini without transferring them to another place. These are plants that are planted in between the planting of the main crops. More on that later.

Most convenient predecessor

The unique predecessor is green manure. Siderata are plants that are rapidly gaining green mass. They have very long and branchy roots that go several meters deep.

If you sow healing plants in one place for several years in a row, you can improve the quality of the soil. Small root shoots rot and make the earth loose and light.

The green mass is cut off and left on the surface. It enriches the soil with essential nutrients.

For crop rotation, green manures are convenient because they need to be cut before flowering. The gardener thus benefits from the siderates themselves, at the same time the plants alternate in a short time.

It is important to know that you cannot plant a crop after a green manure from the same family.

A suitable option for zucchini is the phacelia. It can be sown after harvesting the courgettes and left in the winter. Dry bushes trap snow and promote moisture accumulation. Sow this predecessor again in early spring. Before flowering, cut off and leave to peat, and then plant the zucchini in open ground.

Green manure plants include mustard, lupine, spring rape, rye, clover, oats, phacelia and peas.

With the use of siderates, the question of whether it is possible to plant zucchini after zucchini is settled. It is also not necessary to use the vegetable alternation method.

Zucchini planting methods

Seminal. The seeds are planted in open ground. It is better to prepare them to guarantee germination.

For half a glass of water, take 1 tablespoon of ash. Insist a little and put the zucchini seeds there. After they are soaked, transfer them to cheesecloth and place in a warm place. When the seeds swell or sprout, they are planted in the ground.

Some gardeners produce seed hardening. They are put in the refrigerator for half a day, and then in a warm place, and so on several times.

For the soil method of growing zucchini, the soil is prepared in the fall. Superphosphate and wood ash are introduced. Before digging, lay out humus or compost. In the spring, holes are prepared with a depth of 6 cm. If additional fertilizers are added, then they can be deepened more. The distance will depend on the type of crop. 1 meter is left between the curly zucchini, 70 cm between the bush. The seeds are placed in the holes with a margin. After germination, weaker plants are removed and 1 pc is left.

Seedling. This method is practiced to get an early harvest. They buy ready-made soil and put them in peat cups. Many prepare the soil on their own. It should be predominantly peaty. Additionally, it is diluted with humus and sawdust. In this case, the soil is disinfected with boiling water or manganese solution.

The seeds are planted close to the surface and the glasses are covered with clear material. Then they are left in a warm place.

After the sprouts appear, peat pots are opened and placed in a cooler place.

Moderately watered and fed with special fertilizers for seedlings. A month later, they are planted in prepared holes.

Conclusion

Knowing, after which to plant zucchini, many lovers of summer cottages and their own gardens will no longer give up growing this unpretentious plant... And if you consider what useful properties have pumpkin crops and how good they taste, it is worth it.

Hybrid zucchini. Agricultural technology of cultivation

Hello dear friends

Zucchini is a common bushy variety of pumpkin, only without pronounced lashes, characterized by early maturity and multiplicity. The correct agrotechnology for growing zucchini begins with preparing the best conditions for the plant. For planting a crop, a sunny, wind-protected place is needed, since productive fruit setting takes place at a temperature of at least + 22`C.

Seedlings and adult plants do not tolerate frost, even slight temperature drops can ruin the expected harvest. The legumes and cruciferous families, daikon and radish are good predecessors before placing squash.

What does a landowner expect from squash bushes? A high-quality and productive harvest, the fruits of which are tasty, versatile in food consumption, suitable for storage and, of course, are weakly susceptible to fungal diseases and are resistant to weather vagaries. Accordingly, only F1 hybrids of zucchini meet such considerable requirements, the cultivation of which already halves the labor worries of the gardener, in comparison with the cultivation of ordinary varieties that have come down to our days from the selection of farmers of the USSR.

The expected yielding quality in full and even above, will provide zucchini hybrids: Iskander, Aral, Diamant, Scylli, Alba, Amjad, Kavili, Mary Gold, Cora, Nemo, Fora and a promising zucchini variety from Enza Zaden - Leila.

Agricultural technology for growing hybrid zucchini

In the fall, for the future cultivation of zucchini, the soil is prepared, as usual: they bring compost for digging or simply - chopped hay, green manure cut, sawdust of non-coniferous species, add superphosphate with ash and mix everything. If the soil is acidic, then dolomite flour or powdered chalk is added to the ash. In the spring, it is not necessary to dig up the site, it is enough to rake the cultivation area and water the planting holes abundantly with a combined solution of humic fertilizer with Azophos or ammonium nitrate, about a week before placing the seeds in them.

In May or early June, the seeds of zucchini hybrids are planted in prepared well-groomed soil, no more than 3 pieces per sq. m, deepening no more than 5 cm, watering and slightly compacting the planting holes. After they are mulched with peat chips, hay cut or wood chips of neutral species. The seeds are not soaked, since the hybrids are always processed and covered with several layers of a nutrient-fungicidal shell, which, if washed off outside the soil, will only hinder the initial development, normal vegetation and deprive the seed embryo of nutrition with protection from fungal infections.

Agricultural technology for growing marrow seedlings

Planting zucchini hybrids through seedlings is less common and is mainly used in the northern regions. Greenhouse or greenhouse cultivation of pumpkin crops is unproductive and unprofitable, since it requires forced pollination, strict moisture control and regular formation of bushes.

After sowing, the soil is periodically loosened, the seedlings are thinned out, fed with solutions of mineral and organic compounds, weeds are removed and the generally accepted prophylaxis against diseases and pests is carried out. If mulching of the bushes is not carried out, then loosening is advisable to carry out after rain or irrigation, so that the soil crust does not overlap. When loosening, moisture is retained in the soil and the necessary air is supplied to the roots. During the growing season of the squash, it is advisable to carry out three plentiful feeding: during the formation of seedlings, during the flowering period and the beginning of fruiting.

An important point agrotechnics for growing zucchini is the correct formation of the plant. When forming a bush, the squash is not pinched like a pumpkin, but at the beginning of flowering, several large leaves are removed from the middle of the bush: this way the plant is well illuminated by the sun, ventilated, the appearance of rot is prevented and the access of pollinating insects to the opening flowers is facilitated.

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Zucchini - description and benefits

A plant from the common pumpkin family. Country of origin - Mexico.

Large sheets arranged on elongated petioles, have five pointed ends. The color is green, from pale to darker tones, sometimes with light "blots". Thorny to the touch.

Root system surface type, widely spread. Lateral and adventitious depart from the main root.

Flowers zucchini are heterosexual, but grow on a bush nearby. The color is yellow, the size is not small, the shape resembles a bell.

Fruit most often elongated, may be somewhat curved. You can grow different colors: green or yellow, sometimes black or striped. The pulp of young zucchini is tender, tasty and healthy, easy to digest.

Zucchini has a low calorie content (about 27 Kcal per 100 g), is rich in potassium, iron and a whole range of vitamins. Great for weight loss diets, people recovering from illness. It is unforgivable to ignore such a vegetable when growing on your own plot.

For zucchini grown outdoors, it is worth choosing a well-lit slope without wind, preferably in the south or southwest of the land, away from groundwater.

Forerunners - good and bad

When planting zucchini in open ground, it is very important to consider what was grown in this place last season.

Any "brothers" - cucumbers, squash, pumpkins seem to be bad predecessors for marrow. They took nutrients from the soil of the same level where the marrow is grown, which means that it is already depleted. In the same layer, pathogenic microbes remained, which are always collected by the end of the season after a certain culture. Therefore, with the new cultivation of pumpkin (zucchini) in the ground, there will be practically no nutrients for plants. But diseases will gladly pass on to a familiar plant species for them.

Good predecessors of vegetable marrow are: radishes, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes, parsley. Best of all are legumes, cabbage, onions and garlic. It's a good idea to plant siderates before growing zucchini.

Preparation of seeds and planting material

You can plant zucchini with seeds or seedlings. Both methods require the preparation of planting material.

ovosheved.ru

Planting zucchini

Light
Ph soil acidity	groundwater.
Watering
Preparing for landing	seed treatment
Fertilizers	weeds
Good predecessors
Bad predecessors
Landing time	seedlings
Landing scheme	ash.
Planting depth
Problems	Diseases of squash Zucchini pests to protect their.
Care	weeding
Zucchini varieties

Zucchini is famous for its useful properties and unpretentiousness. Nutritionists respect it for its low calorie content and a range of vitamins and organic acids. 100 grams of the product contains only 27 kilocalories!

So, for those who are not in the know: zucchini is an annual herbaceous vegetable plant belonging to the pumpkin family. Zucchini are green, yellow and white. Below we will tell you more about this.

Zucchini is photophilous and thermophilic, and therefore should be planted on the sunny side. Do not forget this important feature: the more light this plant receives, the faster it will harvest, and the more abundant it will be.

Light sandy loam and loamy soils are considered favorable soil for zucchini. It is important that the soil warms up well throughout the growth period of the squash.

Planting zucchini

There are two options for planting zucchini: seedlings or seeds. The choice of planting method depends on how warm your climate is and how quickly you want your first crop. If you're in no rush to harvest or simply don't have room for seedlings, plant your squash seeds directly into the soil. Before this, the soil should be prepared: make holes about 70 cm apart, fertilize them with compost or humus, and only then plant the seeds. In about a month, they will bloom. Here's how we have:

Many people wonder when to plant zucchini. The answer is simple: late May - early June. It is desirable, not in the hottest, but not in the cold, because if the temperature is below -2 ° C, the plant may die.

You might want to plant seedlings. In this case, you can proceed as follows. Pour a mixture of peat and humus into the pots. Then water a little and stick the seeds to a depth of 2-3 cm. Watering the seedlings is carried out every 10 days. Top dressing of seedlings must be done 2 times for the entire time: when shoots appear and after another 10 days. As a top dressing they usually use "Bud" or "Agricola".

When to plant zucchini for seedlings? 30-35 days before planting in the ground.

Zucchini care

It is unlikely that growing zucchini will cause any difficulties. So, we planted the zucchini in the ground, what next? Consider the main stages of caring for zucchini.

Loosening the soil

It is extremely important that the soil on which the zucchini grows is loose and allows heat and water to pass through well. The frequency of loosening depends on the type of soil in your area. Some types of soil, such as loam, tend to harden, forming a hard crust. Such soil must be loosened more often. Loosening can be combined with weeding.

Watering zucchini

Water the zucchini regularly, but not too often. Once every 10 days is enough. But you need to water abundantly, so that 1 sq. m accounted for about 10 liters of water.

The temperature of the water is equally important. Cold water can cause the ovary to rot. 10 days before harvesting, it is better to stop watering altogether in order to avoid damage to the fruits. Zucchini do not tolerate high humidity, therefore, if you grow them under plastic, it is advisable to ventilate the greenhouse from time to time.

Top dressing

For feeding, you can use mullein infusion or special fertilizers. Top dressing is carried out at least 2 times: when the plant blooms and when the fruits grow. This will significantly increase the yield.

Pollination

It is believed that in order to improve pollination, it is necessary to part the zucchini leaves from time to time to provide insects' access to the flowers. But usually insects cope on their own. In some cases, pollination is done manually.

Harvesting

Different types of zucchini reach maturity at different times. Zucchini intended for storage usually take longer to ripen than others. Already 20 days after flowering, the first crop can be harvested. Of course, they will be still small, but I know that in some areas, zucchini is used in this form.

It is extremely important not to allow the zucchini to overgrow, because in this case, consumer properties are lost. When can a zucchini be considered ripe? If the zucchini skin is hard to the touch, and you hear a dull sound when tapping, then it's time to cut it off. Mature squash can be stored in the basement for about 4-5 months.

Zucchini varieties

Below I will list the best zucchini varieties that have earned the love of many gardeners.

Zucchini " Iskander"Characterized by tenderness of the pulp and high yield:

Zucchini " Tsukesha"- a variety of courgette-zucchini. By the way, zucchini surpasses even carrots in carotene content. Very tender zucchini. We plant them mostly for vegetable stews and salads.

If you need varieties of zucchini for the Moscow region and other regions with the same climate, feel free to plant "Tsukesha".

Zucchini marrows, the varieties of which are very diverse today, contrary to popular belief, are not only green. They can also be golden yellow or variegated.

For example, a zucchini " Delicate marshmallow«:

If you like zucchini like me, the varieties you should try are zucchini " Spaghetti"And zucchini" Hare's ear". They are very interesting, especially the first one. See for yourself:

This is how he is on the outside. And here's one inside:

This is how it becomes when cooked as a whole ... Funny, isn't it? It is eaten in the same way as other zucchini.

You don't even need to cut it. I ripped it off and it only remains to cook =)

Also pay attention to the zucchini “ Kavili". This is a very early variety. Ideal for immediate preparation.

Well, and the last variety that I want to show you is zucchini " Ball". It looks like a watermelon or pumpkin.

This is an early zucchini variety with excellent flavor characteristics.

In conclusion, I can only say one thing: eat zucchini, the best varieties of which are presented above. This is a real storehouse of vitamins. Well, before they, of course, need to be planted.

What varieties of zucchini do you prefer?

Planting a vegetable marrow | Grow a garden!

Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo L. var. Giraumons Duch.) Zucchini is a type of hard-bore gourd. South and Central America is considered his homeland. It is widespread in the USA, Canada, and European countries. It was brought to Russia in the 19th century from Turkey and Greece. Now it is grown everywhere in the Russian Federation. Zucchini fruits acquire commercial properties in 40-50 days after germination. Young ovaries aged 7-12 days contain dry matter 5-12 percent, sugar 2.2-2.8 percent, protein up to 1 percent, vitamin C 12-30 mg%, mineral salts 0.4 percent (phosphorus, iron, copper, potassium), carotene, vitamins B1, B2, B6, PP, Sun.

Zucchini is low in calories and creates an alkaline environment. Very useful for overweight and diabetes. They remove excess cholesterol from the body. Therefore, they are included in the menu for diseases of the liver, kidneys, stomach, intestines, anemia and cardiovascular diseases in boiled, fried and canned form.

Zucchini is an annual plant, usually bush-shaped, but climbing forms are also available. Taproot, strongly branched, leaves are large, five-lobed, tough. Flowers are dioecious, pale green or yellow, monoecious, located on the main stem, sometimes on the lateral shoots of the first order. Cross-pollinated plants. Pollen is carried by bees, bumblebees and other insects. Fruits are cylindrical, elongated, sometimes slightly curved. The bark of young fruits is tender, soft, white or green. In rainy weather when there are no bees or low temperature can form parthenocarpic fruits.

Zucchini loves warmth, although among other pumpkin crops it is considered the most resistant to cold. Its seeds can germinate at 8-9 degrees, but the optimum temperature for seed germination and subsequent plant growth is 22-25 degrees. The minimum temperature that does not disturb growth is 12-15 degrees. Plants tolerate short-term drops in temperature up to 6-10 degrees, but die even with light frosts. They are quite resistant to drought, but watering, especially during the period of mass flowering and fruit formation, significantly increases the yield. Zucchini prefers sunny areas, light sandy loam or loamy fertile neutral soils (PH = 6.5-7.5), poorly tolerates dense, heavy, cold, poor in nutrients. There are more than 20 varieties and hybrids of zucchini in zoning: Gribovsky 37, Beloplodny, Rolik, Anna, Yakor, Sosnovsky, hybrids Belogor F, Nemchinovsky F ,. Agrotechnics. Zucchini is placed after potatoes, cabbage, onions, root vegetables, legumes or green crops. Taking into account fertility, manure or compost is introduced in the fall at 4-6 kg / m2 and a vegetable mineral mixture at 50-80 g / m2, then the soil is dug to a depth of 27-30 cm.

Zucchini seeds before sowing warmed up at a temperature of 50-60 degrees for several days, and the last few hours at a temperature of 78 degrees. The temperature is raised gradually so as not to destroy the embryo of the seed. Warming up helps to destroy pathogens of viral diseases. The heated seeds are soaked in a solution of epin (2 drops per 1 liter of water) or a solution of trace elements for 12 hours. Seeds are sown to a depth of 3-5 cm (on light soils up to 7 cm) in holes of 3 seeds, when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 8-10 degrees, and the air temperature reaches 15 degrees. In the Krasnodar Territory, such conditions are created in the 2-3rd decade of April, in the central region of the Russian Federation - in the 2-3rd decade of May. Sowing scheme 0.6 × 0.6 m; 0.7 x 1.4 m; 0.7 × 1.2 m. In the North Caucasus, it can be sown in 2-3 terms with a week break. Seedlings appear on the 5th - 8th day after sowing. Before the emergence of shoots, shallow loosening is done in the holes, without moving the soil. To protect against crows and rooks, it is advisable to cover the holes or cover them with foil. Thin in the phase of one true leaf, plucking out or cutting off the weakest plants with a knife. One plant is left in each well. The first loosening is carried out after the emergence of seedlings or on the second day after planting the seedlings, subsequently - on the 2-3rd day after rain or watering. In the aisles they loosen to a depth of 12-14 cm, in the holes - by 5-6 cm. Loosening is carried out until the bushes close. In the phase of 4-5 true leaves, the plants are covered with moist soil to form adventitious roots. Watered with warm water warmed in the sun, soaking the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm. Watering is best done in the afternoon. Top dressing begins after the formation of two true leaves. To do this, dissolve 40 g of crystal or complex fertilizers in 10 liters of water and water the plants under the root with this solution, without wetting the leaves. The second top dressing should preferably be carried out in the budding phase, increasing the dose of potassium by two times, and nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers by 1.5 times. If necessary, you can feed the plants several more times (70 g of complex mineral fertilizers per 10 liters of water). 0.5 to 1 liter of the nutrient mixture is poured under each plant, depending on the age of the plants. After the first wave of fruiting in August, the plants rejuvenate by spraying the leaves with a solution of urea and microelements (20 g of urea + 1 tablet of microelements per 10 liters of water). With a strong growth of plants, 2 - 3 middle leaves are cut out in order to increase ventilation and bees' access to flowers. Usually, squash plants are not pinched, since the fruits are formed on the main shoot. But sometimes, to speed up the beginning of the collection, it is recommended to pinch the top of the main stem. Water the plants several times during the growing season in dry weather. When the ovaries fall off, it is recommended to carry out additional manual pollination. If there are no male flowers on the plant, you can pollinate with male flowers plucked from squash, pumpkin or cucumber. In this case, no seeds are formed, but partenocarpic (seedless) fruits can grow.

The fruits are harvested 8-10 days after flowering, when they reach a length of 10-15 cm. The ovaries are cut with a knife, together with the stalk. Fees are carried out in 1 - 3 days. The most suitable for canning are fruits no more than 10 cm long and 5-7 cm in diameter. Larger ones are used to prepare caviar. Getting seeds. Experienced amateur vegetable growers leave the best, typical fruits for seed purposes on the same plants from which food ovaries were collected, but you need to pay attention to some features of agricultural technology. Varietal plantings (crops) should be isolated, since flowers of different varieties of squash are easily pollinated among themselves, as well as with flowers of pumpkin varieties with hard bark and squash. When harvesting your own zucchini seeds in a small area, it is better to grow one variety of this crop, not to grow squash and hard (ordinary) pumpkin. The most powerful plants are selected for seed purposes. The fruits are removed as they reach technical ripeness, but one or two are left until fully ripe. Ripe fruits become yellow, creamy or orange in color. The bark becomes hard. The fruits are cut and ripened in a warm room for 7 to 25 days, after which they are cut, seeds are isolated, dried to a moisture content of 12-13 percent and stored. After the seeds are isolated, the fruits are suitable for salads, soups and other dishes.

Note to the hostess - Zucchini recipes

Zucchini with mushrooms and tomatoes. Salt and pepper the zucchini cut into thin slices, roll in flour and fry. Chop, salt and brown the mushrooms and tomatoes separately. Stew the mushrooms in sour cream. When serving, put mushrooms and tomatoes on zucchini, sprinkle with finely chopped herbs. For 600 g of zucchini - 200 g of mushrooms and tomatoes, 100 g of butter, 30 g of sour cream, 50 g of flour, salt, onions, dill and parsley and ground pepper to taste. Zucchini and potato cutlets. Grind the zucchini on a coarse grater, add mashed boiled potatoes, eggs, finely chopped herbs, salt, pepper, flour, stir everything, form cutlets. Dip them in flour and egg, fry in hot oil. Serve hot with salad. For 1 kg of zucchini - 500 g of potatoes, 5 eggs, 70 g of herbs, 120 g each of flour and vegetable oil.

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Zucchini have long been "settled" on our plots. This vegetable is unpretentious, bears fruit well, is widely used in cooking, and therefore is widespread almost everywhere.

Zucchini fruits have high taste and dietary qualities. They eat young fruits of 8-12 days of age, 20-25 cm long. Many dishes are prepared from zucchini: they are stewed, fried, stuffed, caviar is prepared from them, canned and pickled.

Botanical features of zucchini

Zucchini is an annual herb and is a bushy variety of hard-bore pumpkin. Zucchini, as a rule, has a bushy form, but there are also semi-bushy and long-leaved forms.

In bush forms stem erect, thick, with hard pubescence.

Leaves on long petioles, large, with five pointed lobes. The color of the leaves is from light green to dark green, in some varieties with white spots, they have a prickly coarse pubescence.

Root system located in the arable layer, widespread to the sides. Consists of taproot, lateral and adventitious roots.

Flowers dioecious, monoecious - both male and female flowers are located on the same bush. Flowers are yellow, large, bell-shaped.

Fruit elongated, cylindrical, sometimes slightly curved. The color of the fruit can be white, white-green, dark green with light stripes. There are varieties with bright yellow fruit.

Biological features of zucchini

Zucchini is an early ripening plant capable of continuous fruiting. In order for the plant to develop better and form more ovaries, it is necessary to remove the grown greens more often, without waiting for them to fully ripen. Zucchini begin to bear fruit 55-65 days after germination, the zucchini will bloom and form ovaries until late autumn.

Temperature... Zucchini is a thermophilic plant, but it does not tolerate prolonged cooling to + 5 + 6 ° С. Frosts, even small ones, are detrimental to zucchini. Seeds can germinate at t + 8 + 9 ° С, but the optimum temperature for germination of seeds is + 18 + 24 ° С. The same temperature is optimal for plant development and fruit growth.

Light... Zucchini is a light-loving short-day plant. In a short day, flowering and fruiting are accelerated, in late varieties, the number of female flowers increases. Although in long day conditions, the squash blooms and bears fruit successfully. When shaded, the plants stretch out, pollen from female flowers does not mature well, and the fruits accumulate less sugars and dry matter.

The soil... Zucchini prefer fertile, loose soil. They grow well on black earth and loamy soils, well filled with organic fertilizers, with deep digging.

Moisture... Thanks to its powerful root system, squash is more drought tolerant than cucumber. However, due to the high volatility of leaves and the rapid growth of leaf mass and fruits, zucchini needs regular watering. Lack of moisture negatively affects the yield of zucchini and the quality of the fruit. Optimum soil moisture for good plant development and formation a large number fruits 70-80%, air humidity 80-85%.

Zucchini growing technology

The technology of growing zucchini is not complicated and, if the necessary conditions are met, the harvest of zucchini is guaranteed. For zucchini, it is better to select an area protected from the wind, well warmed up and illuminated. Be sure to observe the crop rotation. The best predecessors for zucchini: onions, potatoes, cabbage, grains, herbs.

Preparing the beds

The beds need to be prepared in the fall. Carry out a deep digging with a selection of weeds. Zucchini makes high demands on soil fertility, therefore, the beds must be filled with organic and mineral fertilizers:

• in clay soil you need to add 1/2 bucket of humus, peat, coarse sand, 1 tbsp. l. complex fertilizer and 2 glasses of ash per 1 sq. meter;
• in peat soil you need to add 1/2 bucket of humus or compost, 1 bucket of clay or loamy soil, 2 glasses of ash and 1 tbsp. l. complex fertilizer per 1 sq. meter;
• in sandy soil you need to add 1 bucket of sod land, humus, peat, 2 glasses of ash and 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoes per 1 sq. meter.

After fertilization, the soil is dug up, high beds are formed, 70-80 cm wide, and the soil is leveled with a rake. Zucchini respond well to the introduction of manure into the soil. If it was not possible to prepare the beds in the fall, then you can do this in the spring, but then you cannot use fresh manure, only humus.

With an insufficient amount of organic fertilizers, you can apply them not for digging, but directly into the holes. To do this, the beds are dug up, formed, leveled with a rake and holes are made, 1 liter of humus is put in each, 1 tbsp. l. ash and 1 tsp. complex fertilizer, everything is mixed with the soil. On poor soils, pits are made 25-30 cm deep and 30-40 cm in diameter, filled with humus or manure, soil is poured on top with a layer of 15 cm and zucchini are planted.

When growing zucchini in the open field, the holes are arranged in rows. The distance between the rows is 70 cm, between the holes is 50-70 cm.When growing under tunnel-type film shelters, it is more convenient to plant zucchini in one row, after 50 cm.Before sowing or planting seedlings, the soil must be shed with a 0.5-1% manganese solution (0.5-1 g. Potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water), solution consumption - 3 liters per 1 sq. meter.

The agrotechnology of growing zucchini involves 2 methods: through seedlings and seedless.

Sowing

Seeds, before sowing, need to be treated with 1% manganese solution for 20 minutes, rinsed and put in a damp cloth for pecking. To obtain strong and friendly shoots, the seeds can be soaked in a solution of ash (1 tbsp. L per 1 liter of water), in a solution of nitroammofoska (1 tsp. Per 1 liter of water), in a solution of Kristallina or ROST-1 fertilizer "(1 tsp for 1 liter of water). After processing, rinse the seeds in clean water. As soon as the seeds hatch and spouts appear, up to 0.5 cm long, the seeds should be sown.

At recklessway cultivation, the hatched seeds are sown directly into the ground. Sowing is carried out only when the soil warms up to + 12 + 14 ° С. 2-3 seeds are placed in the hole to a depth of 3 cm, covered with earth and mulched with peat on top. When the first true leaf appears in the seedlings, they are thinned out, leaving the strongest one. In order not to damage the root system of the seedling, extra plants are not pulled out, but plucked out.

Seedling method allows you to get the harvest much earlier. Seedlings can be grown in a greenhouse or at home on a windowsill.

Sowing dates they are calculated based on the fact that seedlings are planted in open ground at the age of 20-30 days, when the threat of frost has passed. For planting seedlings May 25 - June 10, sowing is carried out April 20 - May 5. For growing zucchini in closed ground, under film shelters, seeds are sown even earlier, on April 10 - 20. If you intend to grow zucchini for storage, use in autumn-winter period then early crops are not suitable. In this case, it is better to sow in early June directly into the ground.

For growing seedlings, take pots, jars, 10x10 cm in size. The soil mixture for growing marrow seedlings is prepared from 3 parts of peat, 5 parts of sod land, 2 parts of humus. Add 20-30 gr. To 1 bucket of the mixture. superphosphate, 10 gr. ammonium nitrate, 5 gr. potassium sulfate and 1 glass of ash. Pour the prepared soil mixture into jars and spill it with a hot 1% manganese solution. Seeds are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 2 pieces per jar. After the appearance of the first true leaflet, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving one.

Growing marrow seedlings

The optimum temperature for growing marrow seedlings is + 18 + 22 ° C. Water the seedlings with warm water, every 5-7 days, but not allowing the soil to dry out. During the cultivation of seedlings, you need to do 2 dressings. The first feeding is carried out 7-8 days after the emergence of shoots. For feeding, dilute 1/2 tbsp. l. urea and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate in 5 liters of water. The second feeding is done 7 days after the first. For feeding, dilute 1 tbsp. l. any complex fertilizer in 5-6 liters of water. Consumption of solutions - 1/2 cup per 1 plant.

Transplanting

Carefully, trying not to damage the roots, remove the seedling from the pot with a lump of earth and plant it in a prepared hole spilled with warm water, cover it with earth and compact the soil around the seedling. If there is a risk of frost, then a temporary shelter should be installed over the vegetable garden. The shelter can be film or non-woven material.

Care

Caring for zucchini planted in the ground consists of watering, loosening the soil, weeding and timely collection of fruits.

To water plants need regularly, warm water (+ 22 + 25 ° С), once every 7-10 days. Watering rate 1.5-2 liters per plant. During mass fruiting, watering rates are increased and watered more often, once every 3 days. At the end of the growing season, watering is reduced, and a week before harvesting, it is completely stopped so that the quality of the fruits does not deteriorate.

Top dressing... The first feeding is done 10-15 days after planting the seedlings. You can feed it with mullein infusion (1 liter of slurry per 10 liters of water) or 0.5 liters. slurry and 1 tbsp. l. nitrophosphate for 10 liters of water. Solution consumption 1 liter. per plant. The second feeding is carried out during flowering. Dilute in 10 liters 1 tbsp. l. complex fertilizer and 1 glass of ash. The third feeding is done during fruiting. You can feed it with infusion of mullein or bird droppings with the addition of 1 tbsp. l. complex fertilizer or dissolve in 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate, 1 tbsp. l. urea and 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate. Consumption of the solution is 1-1.5 liters per plant. Zucchini respond well to foliar feeding. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. l. urea and spray the bushes. Foliar dressing is carried out every 10-12 days.

Bush formation... Zucchini do not need pinching, only during flowering you need to cut 2-3 leaves in the center of the bush. This technique will facilitate the access of pollinating insects to flowers and provide access to sunlight in the center of the bush, to the ovaries.

Pollination flowers occur with the help of insects - bees, bumblebees, etc. To attract insects, you can spray the plants with a solution of honey (1 teaspoon of honey in 1 glass of water). Spraying in the morning. In cloudy weather, when there are few insects flying, you can manually pollinate. To do this, you need to pick a completely blossoming male flower, remove all the petals and apply pollen on the stigma of the female flower. One male flower is enough to pollinate 3-4 female flowers.

Harvesting

The most juicy and tasty are fruits up to 25 cm long. By cutting off young zucchini fruits, we stimulate the plant to form new ovaries. Fruit collection is carried out at least 2 times a week. Only those fruits that are supposed to be left for storage should be allowed to ripen. Such fruits must be cut with a 5-7 cm long stalk. The last fruits must be removed before the onset of frost.

Storage

Zucchini can be stored well indoors or, if possible, can be stored in the basement or in a cool pantry. Fruits are stored until March - April.

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Sowing marrow | Grow a garden!

Zucchini is grown by direct sowing in the ground or through seedlings. In both cases, the pre-sowing preparation of seeds is an important factor.

Against fungal diseases, the seeds are kept in water for 4-6 hours at a temperature of + 48 + 50 ° C. Then immediately placed in cold water for 1-2 minutes. It is even better to use Fitosporin-M for seed dressing or a mixture of Alirin-B with Gamair (1 tablet per 1 liter of water). The duration of any of these treatments is 8-18 hours at room temperature.

For lovers folk methods you can advise for seed dressing aloe or Kalanchoe juice (1: 1). Let the seeds stand for 30-40 minutes, then rinse well with water.

Seeds purchased from hands or from our own production are simply necessary to pickle. If the seeds are bought in a store and the package indicates that they have undergone pre-sowing preparation, then you should not pickle or warm the seeds in order to avoid deterioration of germination or its complete loss. These seeds are usually colored.

To accelerate seed germination, you can use any of the following techniques:

• Soaking before sowing seeds in water at a temperature of + 25 ° C for a day.
• Germination before pecking in a damp cloth (emergence of sprouts 5-6 mm in size).
• Hardening of soaked, but not germinated seeds by exposing them to variable temperatures for 3-4 days. The seeds soaked the day before are placed in a damp cloth in a refrigerator with a temperature of 0 ° C to -1 ° C for 14-16 hours. Then during the day they are kept at a temperature of + 18 + 20 ° C for 6-8 hours, etc.
• Seed barbatation.
• Soaking before sowing in solutions: microelements, Epin, Zircon (from 8 hours to 24 hours, especially with low seed germination), potassium humate, wood ash (1 tablespoon without a slide for 1 liter of water), full complex fertilizer, aloe or Kalanchoe juice (1: 9).

Seed hardening is generally effective when sowing seeds in open ground. The plant's resistance to cold increases, and the seeds germinate better. When growing seedlings at home, this trait is lost over time, and the grown seedlings, a week before planting, require a mandatory gradual hardening in the open air (that is, in those conditions where it will grow in the future).

Sometimes, during germination in a damp cloth, the seeds begin to rot. To prevent this, I put the prepared seeds on a tray with cotton pads or a cloth and sprinkle some soil on top. I moisten everything and put it in a warm (+ 28 + 30 ° C) place before pecking. I periodically check the humidity and add some water. The soil should be wet, but the seeds should not float in the porridge. If necessary, cover the pallet with foil with cut holes. Sprouted seeds are visible on the raised tubercles. I carefully select them and sow them in pots for seedlings.

In the non-chernozem zone, to obtain early production, seeds for seedlings for warm beds with a film cover begin to be sown in the 20th of April. Seedlings are planted on May 20-25. For open ground, seeds are sown for seedlings on May 5-10. Seedlings are planted in the ground on June 5-10 after the threat of return frosts has passed. With a seedless culture, sowing seeds on warm ridges with a film cover - May 20-25, in open ground - June 5-10.

Compositions of mixtures for sowing seeds

• 50-60% peat, 30-40% humus, 10-20% sod land and 10% semi-rotted sawdust. If necessary, you can add some river sand. Add 3-6 g of ammonium nitrate, 8-15 g of superphosphate and 5-10 g of potassium fertilizer to a bucket of the mixture.

• Sod land with compost or humus in a 1: 1 ratio. For 10 liters of the mixture, add 1 glass of ash, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potash fertilizer and a little sand.

• Peat with sand in a 1: 1 ratio.

For those who find it difficult to make soil mixtures themselves, you can buy a universal ready-made soil for seedlings of vegetable crops. Also on sale are specialized soils for growing pumpkin crops.

For more information on how to choose the best quality commercial soil or prepare it yourself, see the articles Sow me with love and Soils and substrates for growing seedlings.

To obtain early production, squash is grown through seedlings. Here, as in the cultivation of any other vegetable crop, the main thing is quality. It doesn't matter how old you can grow seedlings - two weeks or 30 days. It is important that it is healthy, strong and hardened by the time of disembarkation. Seedlings can be grown on a windowsill, glazed balcony or loggia, greenhouse or greenhouse.

Depending on the age of the finished seedlings, containers are selected for planting seeds. These can be peat or plastic pots, 0.5 liter juice bags, homemade newspaper cups, etc. Zucchini does not tolerate transplanting well, so it is better to sow the seeds immediately in separate containers. For two-week seedlings, 8 cm cups are suitable, for a 20-day one - 12 cm, and for a 30-day one - 15 cm. The seeds are sown to a depth of 3-4 cm and lightly watered for better contact with the soil. Before germination, crops are kept at a temperature of + 25 + 28 ° C. As soon as shoots appear, the pots are transferred to a bright place with a temperature of + 13 + 14 ° C at night, and + 16 + 17 ° C in the daytime. This temperature is maintained for 3-4 days so that the seedlings get stronger and do not stretch out. Then, throughout the entire growing period, the temperature is maintained during the day in cloudy weather - + 20 + 22 ° C, in sunny weather - + 25 + 28 ° C, at night - + 16 + 18 ° C.

If the seeds are sown without naklyuchnuyu, then take them with a reserve, and sow 2-3 seeds in one pot. In the future, only one best strong seedling is left, which appeared first and has a normal healthy look... The rest are removed.

Water zucchini seedlings regularly, as the topsoil dries slightly. In no case should you overfill or delay watering, since due to a sharp drop in pressure in the stems, they can crack along. This is fraught with the development of root and stem rot. Irrigation water temperature + 22 + 25 ° C.

Top dressing of seedlings

During the cultivation of seedlings, it is fed several times.

• If the seedling mixture was prepared with the addition of humus, compost and mineral fertilizers, then the first feeding is carried out two weeks after germination, the second - 7-10 days after the first.
• If the seedling mixture was prepared without adding compost, humus and mineral fertilizers, then the first feeding is carried out 7 days after germination, the second - 7-10 days after the first. And if necessary, you can carry out a third feeding (when growing 30-day seedlings) 2-3 days before planting.

Top dressing can be carried out with one of the following solutions (consumption of 100 ml per plant in the first dressing and 200 ml per plant in the second and third dressing):

• mullein solution 1: 8 or chicken droppings 1:15 with the addition of 20-25 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of solution.
• for 10 liters of water 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of potassium sulfate and 30 g of superphosphate.
• for 1 liter of water 1 teaspoon of nitrophosphate and 1 teaspoon of wood ash.

• you can make an excellent "green dressing" yourself from fermented weeds (see Herbal starter cultures for plant nutrition). Consumption of working solution "herbal starter" - 100-200 ml per plant, dilute the concentrate with water 1: 4. “The EM extract is used as for regular watering, but only for mature seedlings.

If it is difficult to make fertilizers ourselves, you can use ready-made complex fertilizers: Agricola for seedlings, Solution, etc. Or special fertilizers for pumpkin crops: Agricola No. 5 for cucumber, squash, squash and melon; FlorHumat for cucumbers and zucchini; "HERA" for cucumbers and zucchini; "Sudarushka cucumber" - for cucumbers, zucchini, melons.

In the absence of mullein and chicken manure, you can buy dry granular chicken manure, liquid extract of cow dung "Biud", or liquid extract of horse manure "Biud", "Bucephal", "Kaury" in stores.

When growing seedlings of 20 days of age or more, in order to obtain more uniformly developed plants, it is good to give frequent (fractional) feeding. In this case, the amount of fertilizer for conventional feeding is divided by the number of fractional feeding and is applied in the form of a weak solution. For example, timing them to the next watering. And it is better to alternate organic and mineral supplements with each other.

In no case should the seedlings be overexposed for more than 30-35 days, even if the seedling containers are of sufficient size. Such seedlings do not take root well and give a late low yield.

On the further cultivation of zucchini - in the article Zucchini in a seedling and non-seedling way

Planting zucchini

For planting zucchini, choose a sunny, protected from cold winds place, preferably on the southwestern and southern slopes. The higher the illumination, the sooner fruiting occurs and the higher the yield.

Any vegetables, except for pumpkin vegetables, can be precursors for culture. After them, it is not recommended to plant the plants for 3 years, which will avoid the accumulation of diseases in the soil.

Zucchini grows well on fertile, humus-rich soil with a neutral reaction. The plot for it is filled with organic matter since autumn, and lime if necessary. If fertilizers were not applied during the autumn digging, in the spring 10-15 kg of compost, 50-60 g of superphosphate, a little wood ash are added per 1 m2.

Seeds begin to germinate at + 12-15 ° C, seedlings do not tolerate frost, which determines the timing of planting zucchini. They are planted in open ground not earlier than the end of May; to extend the period of consumption of fresh fruits, sowing is carried out several times with an interval of 5-6 days.

To accelerate the germination of seeds, they are pre-soaked in a solution of mineral fertilizers or a growth stimulator for a day, or germinated before pecking, or kept for 5 hours in warm (50 ° C) water.

Plants are placed according to the scheme 70x50 cm, no more than 3 pcs. per 1 m2. When planting, put a handful of humus and ash, and 3-4 seeds in each hole. In the future, only one, the most developed specimen is left in the hole. The seeds are buried by 5-7 cm, on heavy soils - by 3-5 cm.

For early consumption, they use the cultivation of zucchini in a greenhouse and under a film shelter, as well as planting seedlings.

Planting and growing seedlings of zucchini

Growing marrow seedlings allows not only to get the first fruits earlier, but also to increase the overall yield.

For planting, purchased soil with a high humus content and a neutral reaction is used, or a soil mixture is prepared, the approximate composition of which is 50% peat, 20% sod land, 20% humus, 10% sawdust. With increased acidity, chalk or ash is added.

Pre-prepared seeds are sown in separate containers or peat pots, 1 pc. 20-30 days before the expected disembarkation. For cultivation in greenhouses and under film shelters, planting of marrow seedlings is carried out in early April, for open ground - in early May.

Before the emergence of seedlings, the temperature should be at least 20-22 ° C, then, so that the seedlings do not stretch, for 5-6 days it is reduced to 13-15 ° C at night and 15-18 ° C in the afternoon, after which it is raised again to 20- 22 ° C.

They are fed with mineral fertilizers (5-7 g of superphosphate and 2-3 g of urea per 1 liter of water) or mullein solution, the first time - 10 days after germination, the second one another week. If the soil is filled with enough nutrients, one top dressing is enough, a week before planting. At the age of 30 days, the seedlings are transferred to greenhouses and under shelters - in early May, to open ground - in early June. Transplanted with a lump of earth so as not to damage the root system, and buried to the cotyledons.

Care and agricultural technology of vegetable marrow in the open field, in greenhouses and on the balcony

After the emergence of seedlings or planting in the ground of seedlings of zucchini, growing and caring for them consists in timely watering, weeding, loosening and feeding.

In the phase of 4-5 leaves, the stem is slightly spud, which contributes to the development of additional lateral roots. Before the leaves close, the plant needs several weeding and loosening.

They are fed twice, during flowering and at the beginning of fruiting, using a solution of organic or mineral: phosphorus, potassium, and in the first feeding and nitrogen fertilizers. Zucchini do not tolerate chlorine fertilizers.

In central Russia, the cultivation of marrows in open ground on an industrial scale is carried out without irrigation, but the prolonged lack of water affects the yield. On backyards and summer cottages plants are watered once a week with warm water, which is especially necessary immediately after planting seedlings, during flowering and mass formation of the crop. Watering and feeding helps to increase the size of the fruits and prevent their premature ripening. Watering is stopped 7-10 days before the final harvest.

When growing zucchini in greenhouses, caring for them is in many ways similar to open field agricultural technology. A special feature is the need for frequent ventilation to maintain humidity at 60-70% and a temperature of +24 -26 ° C during the day and + 14-15 ° C at night, otherwise the plants can massively lose their ovaries. With strong overgrowth of bushes, to improve ventilation, remove part of the leaves in the middle or lower part.

To attract pollinating insects, zucchini can be sprayed with a solution of sugar and boric acid. This technique is especially relevant for increasing the yield in greenhouses and greenhouses.

When using compact early ripening varieties that are resistant to adverse conditions, it is possible to grow zucchini on a balcony or loggia. For these purposes, the early varieties Beloplodnye, Yakor, Rolik, the Belogor hybrid, almost all zucchini varieties are suitable: Aeronaut, Zebra, Zukkesha. All of them are compact, relatively cold-resistant, tolerate soil and air drought.

Plants are planted in pots with a diameter of at least 10 cm or in boxes at a distance of 50-70 cm, with seeds or seedlings according to the rules described above.

Further agricultural technology is similar to growing in a greenhouse or open field.

In the absence of pollinating insects, zucchini are pollinated by hand, transferring pollen from male flowers to female stigmas. After the first freezing, the plants are removed, the containers are washed and disinfected.

Harvesting for all types of cultivation is carried out 2 times a week, the fruits are plucked when they reach 15-20 cm in size. A delay in harvesting causes overripening of the zucchini, which reduces the number of new ovaries, and the overall yield decreases sharply.

http://sovetysadovodam.com/?p=724 Learn in this video about the method of planting zucchini and typical mistakes that even experienced gardeners often make http://sovetysadovodam.com/?p=724

Zucchini and zucchini are grown primarily outdoors.

Seeds are sown approximately in the second decade of May, when the soil warms up to 14-16 ° C and the spring frosts end. You can sow dry seeds, but it is better to let them hatch, for which endure a day or two in wet gauze. Do not soak the seeds in dense tissue - the quickly sprouted roots "grow" into the tissue, and you will inevitably break them.

Swollen, but not germinated seeds can be hardened - cooled to 0 ° C and left at this temperature for two days. Warming up the seeds also gives good results - 6 hours at a temperature of 50-60 ° C or 5-7 days on a sunny windowsill. Zucchini seeds remain viable for 5-8 years, they begin to germinate at 8-9 ° C, the most favorable temperature for growth and development is 20-25 ° C.

Seedlings appear 6-7 days after sowing. They are afraid of frost, but they endure a short-term cold snap (up to 4-5 ° C).

It is better to prepare the land in the beds in the fall by digging a shovel onto a bayonet, add manure or humus at the rate of 5-6 kg per 1 mg, 25-30 g of double superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In the spring, dig up again, level, pour with a warm solution of potassium permanganate and add 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m.

Sprouted seeds can only be sown in pre-moistened soil, they will die in dry soil. When placing seeds in a garden bed, one must proceed from the fact that 1 sq. m can "get along" 2 zucchini.

Having pulled out a hole, pour a handful of humus and a pinch of ash into it, mix with the ground so as not to burn the roots of the plants, and pour. The sowing depth on light soils is 5-6 cm, on dense 3-4 cm. 2 seeds are placed in the hole and covered with earth.

To prevent the formation of a surface crust, the earth around is mulched with peat or humus. The second (reserve) sprout is then removed or pinched, but if necessary, it can be transplanted.

True, like all pumpkin seeds, the zucchini does not like this operation. Therefore, it is necessary to transplant carefully, not letting someone of the earth with roots fall apart, and be sure to water the plant first.

The same remark applies to vegetable marrow seedlings. Plants that are carelessly planted will ache, and all the "backlog" will be wasted. Strong and hardened plants grown in the open field will catch up and overtake them in growth and development, and after all, 40-45 days after the emergence of seedlings, the first harvest can already be harvested.

Zucchini is an annual herb. Zucchini are grown in bushy, semi-leafy and long-leafed form. The root system of the squash is powerful. The flowers are dioecious, but both male and female are on the same plant. ( discussion of the peculiarities of growing vegetable crops)

Light	Zucchini is a light-loving plant suitable for well-warmed southern or southwestern slopes, sheltered from the wind.
Ph soil acidity	Sour soils with a similar level are unsuitable for squash groundwater.
Watering	Zucchini needs watering immediately after planting seedlings or sowing seeds, flowering, and especially with the mass formation of fruits. The powerful root system of the squash requires abundant irrigation - 20-30 liters of water per 1 m² of the garden. Due to excess moisture in the soil, the tip of the zucchini begins to rot. It is necessary to cut off the rotting part to a healthy pulp and set the cut site on fire over a fire. The fruit will grow further, the cut will become corky. Sometimes the decay of the zucchini tip can be caused by the fact that the flower did not fall off after fertilization and began to rot.
Preparing for landing	Zucchini can be planted on ridges specially prepared from the fall or planted with other crops in the garden. Pre-sowing seed treatment zucchini consists in soaking them in warm water, germinating before pecking, warming up in the sun for 7 days or at 50 ° C for 5 hours. It is also effective to harden zucchini seeds for 5-7 days: alternating heat during the day (+ 20 ° C) for 6 hours and cold during the rest of the day (-2 ° C).
Fertilizers	Of all the fertilizers, zucchini does not tolerate chlorine! In autumn, a plot for zucchini is dug to a depth of 20-25 cm, making 1 m²: 5 kg of organic fertilizers, 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate. In early spring, the soil is harrowed to retain moisture and prevent seedlings weeds... Before sowing, the soil is loosened 10 cm deep, while adding 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m². If phosphorus and potash fertilizers were not applied in the fall, they should be applied in the spring with nitrogen (with ammonium nitrate). During the period of fruit formation, you can feed the zucchini with a liquid solution of potassium salt (50 g per 10 l of water).
Good predecessors	Good predecessors for vegetable marrow can be green manure, radish, onion, cabbage, carrot, parsley, greens, tomato, potatoes, peas, early vegetables.
Bad predecessors	You can not plant zucchini after all pumpkin seeds: pumpkin, cucumber, zucchini, squash.
Landing time	Seeds germinate at +12 - +15 ° C. Zucchini seeds are sown in open ground in late May - early June, when the threat of frost has passed. For a conveyor belt of fresh zucchini, sowing can be carried out several times per season at intervals of 5-6 days. You can grow zucchini through seedlings... In the ground, 30-day seedlings are planted on June 5-10. It is advisable to transplant seedlings with an earthen lump, because all pumpkin seeds do not tolerate well when their roots are disturbed. A vegetable marrow seedling, when planted on a garden bed, is buried to the cotyledon leaves.
Landing scheme	You need to grow no more than 3 squash plants per 1 m². Zucchini planting scheme - 70x50 cm.Before sowing, 1 handful of humus is placed in each hole and ash.
Planting depth	On light soils, zucchini seeds are planted to a depth of 7-8 cm, on heavy soils - by 5-6 cm. 3-4 seeds are placed in each hole, of which only one strongest plant is then left.
Problems	The close proximity of cucumber, pumpkin, as well as zucchini of another variety can lead to over-pollination of plants, which will unpredictably affect their seeds. Diseases of squash: anthracnose, white rot, powdery mildew, root rot. Zucchini pests: melon aphid, spider mite. Many plants in joint plantings are able to take care of their neighbors and to protect their.
Care	Zucchini care consists in weeding, loosening row spacings, thinning plants (for seed sowing), watering. The zucchini harvest is harvested 1-2 times a week, preventing the fruits from overgrowing, which reduces their taste and delays the development and maturation of new ovaries on the zucchini plant. To increase the yield and improve pollination, it is necessary to attract pollinating insects to the garden, for which the plant during flowering can be sprayed with a solution of sugar (100 g) and boric acid (2 g) per 1 liter of hot water. You can also hang jars of honey solution nearby (1 teaspoon for 1 glass of water). In order to avoid poisoning of pollinating insects during the flowering of the garden, spraying with pesticides is not used.
Zucchini varieties	Early ripening and early ripening zucchini varieties: Aeronaut, Belogor, Beloplodny, Nemchinovsky, Gribovsky 37, Yellow-fruited, Zebra, Zolotinka, Kveta, Negron, Rolik, Sote 38, Anchor.

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What are the best precursors for vegetables? Cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, etc. After which they can be planted?

Tatiana Vedenina

I bring to your attention a list of which predecessors are better for certain vegetables, that the harvest made you happy every year.

1. For example, for tomatoes, eggplants and peppers, the best precursors are early white and cauliflower... Acceptable predecessor onions for turnips, root vegetables, late cabbage.

2. For onions on a turnip or set, the best predecessors are cucumbers, tomatoes, early white cabbage, early potatoes. Acceptable precursor legumes, late cabbage and potatoes.

3. Garlic. For him, the best predecessors are the same as for onions, except for potatoes. Acceptable is the same as for onions, except for potatoes.

4. Cucumbers. The best predecessor is early white cabbage and cauliflower. Acceptable predecessor tomatoes, potatoes, legumes, except for beans, root vegetables, except for carrots, as beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumbers.

5. Carrots. The best predecessor is early potatoes, cabbage, green crops, cream of lettuce as well as white rot carrots.

6. Beets. The best predecessor is cucumbers and other pumpkin plants, potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes, all legumes. A valid precursor is late cabbage.

7. Potatoes. Cucumbers and other pumpkin seeds, cabbage, and legumes are best suited. You can root vegetables and onions.

love

cucumbers, zucchini after tomatoes, and tomatoes after cucumbers, onions.

What to plant after what? Competent sowing planning

Crop rotation table

When planning future crops, you must first take into account the order of rotation of cultures. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, the correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as preserve soil fertility. Conversely, when the same vegetables are grown for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.

Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get higher yields. In order not to get confused in the "five hundred square meters", it is worth drawing a plan of your garden for the coming summer and an approximate planting plan for next year, observing the correct order of alternation of vegetable crops.

Cabbage

Do not plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than 2-3 years later. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; planting after beans, peas, carrots and beets is permissible.

Potato

The best precursors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A poor precursor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops share common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than -3.

Cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

According to the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to grow tomatoes after potatoes, since, again, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good precursors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root crops and onions are acceptable.

If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every autumn, under deep digging of the soil, you need to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. M.), So as tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).

Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is undesirable to plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach, again beets).

Onion

Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three to four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops for which large doses of organic fertilizers were applied, as well as cucumbers, squash and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes. On heavy clay soils, onions will not give a good harvest; they prefer light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.

You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise you cannot avoid contamination of the soil with stem nematode.

It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except for onions).

Carrot

Sowed after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

Eggplant

The best precursors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early maturing cabbage, perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

Strawberry

The best predecessors for strawberries: radish, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers are not suitable as precursors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radish, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as precursors. Strawberries cannot be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.

Better together

Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested another correct decision - joint planting. This is both convenient and allows you to get a large assortment of vegetables in a small area. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances secreted by plants.

Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, onions (this is even useful, since joint planting with onions scares away the carrot fly from it). Onion together with beetroot, chicory, carrots. Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. TO potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn, to cucumber- dill and corn, radishes will benefit from the proximity of watercress, and peas - with mustard.

It is proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other. You can make the following bed: plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.

As for the unwanted neighborhood, then can not be planted next to potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed.

In addition, if space permits, set aside a small area for growing travsiderates: clover, lupine, alfalfa, and others. Thus, you will give the land a rest, gain strength for growing vegetables.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge.

Every avid gardener and gardener wants to get the highest yield possible. To achieve this, you need to follow some rules, which will not only increase the harvest, but also avoid any difficulties. The procedure itself is quite simple and accessible to any gardener.

Before you start talking about such a procedure as crop rotation, you first need to understand what it is. Crop rotation is a kind of sequence and alternation in planting vegetable crops for a separate time with the most optimal sequence in space. In other words, it denotes an alternation in planting crops, which must be adhered to in order to get a good, high yield, taking into account the compatibility of planting crops.

Not all plants on the garden plot go well with each other.

For example, planting crops that are planted in a specific location will affect the crops that you plan to plant in their place in the new planting season. There is an unspoken rule that must be adhered to - a crop of the same species cannot be planted in the same place in the garden (tomatoes in place of tomatoes, leafy in place of leafy ones, etc.). They deplete the soil and the earth can contain a huge amount of plant residues planted in this place, and as a result - keep bacteria and pests in itself, which can cause irreparable harm to the same type of culture.

Therefore, most experienced farmers and gardeners recommend planting a cultivated plant in its original place no earlier than four years later.

If your land plot is small and this does not allow you to adhere to this rule, then at least you just need to alternate crops in the most optimal way so that losses are minimal.

There are also cultures that cannot be combined, not only because of the same diseases. If you take cabbage, for example, then its roots during the growing season secrete specific substances that can suppress growth, but stimulate in this process. Thus, you need to try not to randomly plant vegetable crops, but to adhere to the rules of crop rotation in order for the harvest to be as high as possible.

The most popular species legumes grown in home gardens are:

• Peas
• Beans

It is important - adhere to the law of crop rotation, which states that the constant planting of the same crop variety, plants that belong to the same family can reduce. This is due to the presence in the ground and diseases that, after overwintering, will infect the plant. Therefore, it is recommended to follow the crop rotation in order to avoid trouble.

So, legumes must be grown on a land plot where their predecessors were crops from the nightshade family, such as - all varieties and tomatoes, as well as any root crops and cabbage. This will help increase the emergence and yield of crops.

It is worth considering that root crops are very demanding on the soil. It must be mechanically processed and weed-free. Among the main recommendations for the rotation of such crops are:

• Carrots should be planted where they used to sprout, and
• Early varieties of potatoes will give excellent harvest after, and legumes. It can also be planted in the place where it was grown, and. It is not advisable to plant potatoes after itself and tomatoes.
• , rutabagas and will delight such predecessors as - cucumbers, tomatoes, early varieties of potatoes, and leeks.
• The dining room is best planted after such crops - potatoes, colored and early, and siderates.

In the process of crop rotation, it is necessary to provide for the return of fruit plants to the first planting site in three to four years. It is possible to reduce such a gap by alternating pome, stone fruit or berry crops. In order for them to give excellent results, their predecessors must be taken into account.

So, the crop rotation of fruit crops is as follows:

• Planting cucumbers, zucchini, squash, and will give a positive result if earlier on this piece of land there was a cultivation of legumes, cabbage of early and medium varieties, as well as cauliflower, etc. Early varieties of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, beets and greens are considered good predecessors. It is not recommended to plant the above vegetables after late varieties of cabbage and carrots.
• Planting tomatoes is best done after green manures, turnips, cauliflower and greens. It is not advisable to plant on the ground where medium and late varieties of cabbage were planted, as well as spicy herbs, beets, etc. In no case do not plant tomatoes after and.
• Planting will give a good harvest in the place where the peas and potatoes were grown. It is not recommended to plant after onions, tomatoes, fennel, etc.

• Greens (except for lettuce leaves) will give good shoots after such predecessors as -, onions and root crops. It can also be planted in the place of the former habitat of cauliflower, and. It is not recommended to plant greens after early and medium varieties, as well as table beets.
• Excellent precursors for planting medium and late varieties will be peas, beans, tomatoes, etc. A good result will be given by sprouts of such a cabbage after an early habitat on this plot of land early, cucumbers and carrots. Medium to late cabbage may not sprout after early cabbage and beetroot.
• Early and cauliflower will give an excellent harvest after sprouting in this place green manure, beans, peas, onions, early varieties, etc. It can also be planted after and carrots in the case when the soil is well seasoned. In no case plant cauliflower and early cabbage where potatoes, turnips and radishes have sprouted.
• Cabbage salad can only be planted after early cucumbers, potatoes, and annual herbs.
• best planted after cucumbers, green manures, early potatoes and cabbage, cauliflower and beans. Quite good seedlings of onions will be in the area where late varieties, beets and tomatoes previously grew. It is not advisable to plant it after carrots and herbs.
• Will grow well after legumes, onions, cauliflower and early varieties, as well as cucumbers. You can plant herbs after sprouting beets, early varieties of potatoes and tomatoes. It is not recommended to plant them after carrots and late varieties of cabbage.

Before proceeding with the comparison of the crop rotation scheme, it is necessary first of all to draw a plan of the garden plot. It should indicate the places where the planting of vegetable and fruit crops is planned.

Crops are special in that they have different nutrient requirements.

And depending on the level of their consumption from the land, cultures are divided into 3 full-fledged groups:

1. Vegetable crops that have little need. This category includes the following crops that are not particularly whimsical in the composition of the soil - peas, bush beans, salads, radishes, etc.
2. Vegetable crops that have an average requirement for micronutrients and substances. These include -

Zucchini, popular among gardeners, takes priority in planting in gardens and garden plots... This is easily explained by the nutritional properties and simple agricultural technology of growing vegetables. Having collected the harvest, experienced gardeners, realizing the effectiveness of adhering to the correct crop rotation, think about what can be planted after the zucchini next year in a sunny, well-fertilized place where the zucchini grew?

Zucchini is a vegetable that, after harvesting, does not leave negative consequences for the soil. Therefore, the range of plants that are planted in the used area after the harvest of this vegetable is quite wide. Experienced gardeners have long tested various plants for the annual cycle in their beds.

If you do not know how to properly plan the planting of vegetables on your site, then study the information from a special table.

The most popular plants that are actively developing and bearing fruit in the area where zucchini were previously grown include:

Onions and garlic, which, due to their properties, disinfect the soil;
different kinds legumes, in particular peas: they not only give a high yield in these areas, but also enrich the soil with nitrogen;
vegetables from the nightshade family, in particular tomatoes, including the most demanding soil indicators - cherry tomatoes;
root vegetables: radishes, beets, carrots.

The key to the success of every owner is a well-thought-out crop rotation. A good harvest will delight the gardener and reward him for his hard work if he uses the experience and technology accumulated over decades.

Traditionally, before the start of the season, it is necessary to refresh the memory of the basic principles of crop rotation on the site and strictly adhere to them. Usually, the plant is planted in the place where it grew, no earlier than four years later, and at this time the site is planted with other types of vegetables. This rule also applies to zucchini. Experienced gardeners often plant potatoes or tomatoes after zucchini, i.e. vegetables that are susceptible to contamination from infected land. Since squash is resistant to pests, it leaves the soil "clean" and contains enough nutrients to get a good harvest of other crops.